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When The Yellow Bus Gets Parked Up….

Well my prediction was 3-0 to England vs Ghana. How wrong could I be? And I also thought it would be hot in Boston but it was cool and wet. What was predictable was that it was another totally exhausting game to watch pretty much the norm with England! But more on that later.

We woke up at Dex and Kara’s to typical Old England weather. Grey skies and rain. Dex rustled up a great breakfast and then insisted on driving us to the stadium. Such a brilliant friend.

The stadium is the home of the NFL’s New England Patriots. But much like the RyanAir or EasyJet model of ‘London Stansted’ or ‘London Luton’, the Gillette Stadium is nowhere near Boston. It is actually in Foxborough which is at least 45-60 mins by car away. Dex, a big Ghana fan for the day, dropped us just short of Patriot Park. Patriot Park looks like a typical retail park surrounded by car parks leading up to an area with bars and restaurants. Apparently US sports fans tail-gate for match days. Tail-gating is when you park up the oversized car and have beers and oversized food out of the back with your friends. Today though, with a combination of the weather and the sheer number of England and Ghana fans present, that just wasn’t going to happen.

Kirsty on brand

So the pressure was on the bars near the ground which were totally overrun with fans and the English and the Ghanans were in fine voice. We had four sets of friends we were trying to catch up with. We couldn’t get into two of the bars to see two sets of those friends, but managed to meet up with two lots in one bar and have a good time pre match.

Suzy, Mark, Sean and Kirsty – what’s with all the England shirts?

The walk to the stadium took in a short cut through a cinema complete with non working escalators, much to the surprise of the cinema staff. We sailed through security and everything was so much easier than expected. We waved goodbye to Sean, Suzy, Callum, Fabian, Mark and Sam as we all found our way to where were sitting. We met up with Steve our Forest friend and had a proper laugh.

With the Ghanaians
Don’t mess with the MPs
Me and K with Forest Steve

The stadium was similarly impressive to Dallas although a good bit older. Our seats were low and right behind the goal. Perfect for the action to come.

Our view

Both national anthems were impeccably respected, well done England fans, and a great game looked like it was ahead of us.

A huge pre-match ceremony

It was great to see the usual booing of the hydration breaks and those ‘celebrities’ who FIFA have now decided to name with captions. That must be because so many fans inside the grounds just had no clue as to who these people are. Consequently Mumford & Sons got a round of boos, in sharp contrast to David Beckham who got a huge reception with a round of ‘There’s only one David Beckham’, another nice touch from the England fans.

Ubiquitous ‘here we go’ pic

Let’s face it Ghana set up to not concede and made it really hard for England to break them down. Frustrating for the boys and frustrating to watch all round.  

But despite all of that Saka, Guei, Kane and O’Reilly all had great chances towards the end. O’Reilly’s leap reminded me of the great Billy The Fish as he was about a foot higher than anyone else, which is saying something given those Ghanaian defenders were all massive!

Close but no cigar

Sadly, though a win was not to be but it could have been a complete disaster as it appears we were lucky not to concede a penalty with that Konsa challenge towards the end.

Just as Nico hit the crossbar and Harry blasted over

Two steps forward one step back? Maybe. But let’s face it, from what we have seen out here, Argentina, France, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Columbia, Netherlands, and a few more all look good. If we can get to be in the top eight, we will be doing well.

Next stop is New Jersey on Saturday. We need to win against Panama and try and get back to the levels of that second half performance against Croatia. Let’s see how Panama set up against us. They are out of the World Cup so have absolutely nothing to lose. Game on. We hope!

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Victory is Mine…..?

Goodbye Nashville, Tennessee and hello Providence, Rhode Island. You really couldn’t have two more different States. Think Dolly Parton to Family Guy in a couple of hours flight!

We Ubered it to our AirBnb. Early impressions were just fantastic. Our home for a few days is a very old, wooden building with an eclectic interior design taste and furnishings and extremely homely on a very tight budget. Happy days.

Here’s the house in Providence – we have the ground floor

We had a very easy Monday morning in Providence the highlight being a WhatsApp call with Dad. That really made me cry but was so lovely to see and talk to my Dad and Mum.

Seeing and talking to Dad and Mum was brilliant

I picked up some coffees at Bitty & Beau’s which was a lovely coffee shop. It was founded by a couple and offers jobs for people with disabilities and the team were super helpful and welcoming. The woman who served me was fascinated by fact that we were following England around. She was from Portuguese heritage and knew all about the Portuguese team and their challenges given the ‘Ronaldo’ factor.

We decided to take the Argentina vs Austria game on the big screen from Dallas in the local fan park. The weather had turned a little colder and wetter. That did seem to have an effect on the numbers of people watching the game out in the open. The majority of football shirts being worn were Argentinian and every single one bore the number 10 and Messi on their backs. We met a lovely Ecuadorian couple who lived locally and talked football. They seemed to like living in the US, but also said that they missed their homeland. They were slightly bewildered and struggled to get their head around what we were doing watching football on a Monday afternoon. As for following England around North America, well they were absolutely fascinated.

Providence Fan Park
The rain put a premium on seats with umbrellas
Umbrellas in New England seemed rather appropriate

We had laid plans to meet up with our very dear friend and part-time Ghana fan, Dex, who lives just outside Boston. Dex generously cooked dinner at his and his wife, Kara and Conor, their son’s house and then to take us to the Ghana game today.

Dex picked us up from ours just after the end of the game, a game where Messi broke the record for scoring goals at the World Cup, surpassing Miroslav Klose’s previous record. That felt right given the utter brilliance of the little Argentinian maestro. two goals in that game to add to the three in his first game. Surely the Golden Boot this time round will hit double figures?

Family Guy territory

We called in to pick up some beers and really enjoyed watching France vs Iraq from Philadelphia with Dex’s friend Sean who we had last met in Boston twenty years ago at Dex and Kara’s wedding. I predicted a 3-0 win for France. We at least saw the first half of the game until the enormous storm stopped the game for two hours from half time onwards. Dex told us that if there is a lightning storm within 15 miles of the stadium, they have to be evacuated. Camera crews on gantries and spectators in stands constructed in metal are real dangers to life. It happens all the time out here and they just hold the game until the storm passes and spectators get back into the stadium.

The chef and his apprentice

Whilst all this was going on, Norway vs Senegal was getting underway in New Jersey, the same stadium we will be at for the last England group game at the weekend. This was a real classic of a game. Norway with Haaland are a great side and Senegal’s front line are so dangerous. It topped up 3-2 Norway and guaranteed their safe passage into the second round, with Senegal’s future in the competition hanging by a very fine thread.

We had a BBC5Live Breakfast piece to do and then to bed.

Our BBC5Live Breakfast piece

Today’s the day we head to the Foxborough Stadium for the Ghana game. Like a lot of these stadia, they appear to be nowhere near the ‘host’ city, in this case Boston which is 45-60 mins away. It’s a bit like London Stansted or London Luton airports.

I am feeling unusually confident about the game, and have even predicted a 3-0 win for England. Time will tell.

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U.S.A, U.S.A…

As always, when travelling at a football tournament, for us, the art is to try and get the best atmosphere for each game we are not actually at in person. So that means finding like minded football fans. Simple as that.

Billy has found a suitable place to watch the USA vs Australia game. The Tailgate Brewery Music Row which is where the American Outlaws Nashville (AO Nashville), the local chapter of the largest official supporters group for the U.S. Men’s and Women’s National Soccer Teams meet up. The chapter coordinates watch parties, travel, and community events for U.S. soccer fans across the Music City.

We needed to be there early so walked the 30 minutes from our hotel in the hot Tennessee sun.

We were first in from our group and got a table . Billy and Supes joined us as the whole place started to fill up with USA soccer fans. And let’s put this one to bed, yes the Americans call it soccer, but remember my grandad’s generation did too. As we would grow to appreciate, plenty of Americans know their soccer. So enough of the snobbery.

Billy, me, Kirsty and Supes getting ready

Before kick off, the American Outlaws representatives took to the stage and did their piece for their supporters group. Unlike most English football fan groups, the Outlaws seem to have a very sharp way of monetising themselves with all sorts of sponsorship deals and activations. But hey, this is America, and everyone and everything is for sale. Plus tax, service and tips!

COD sponsor the American Outlaws

I had high hopes that Australia fresh from a 2-0 victory over Turkey would put up a proper fight against Team USA. That was not to be.

We offered a lone Aussie, Kevin, a seat at our table and the few Aussies that were there were all pretty underwhelmed by their performance. The locals were loud and supportive with their frequent chants of ‘USA, USA…’ and the Fox TV pundits included Thierry Henry and Alexi Lalas, he of the long ginger hair and goatee beard back in the 90’s. Think Albert Einstein and the bloke from Weatherspoons in terms of insight and class.

Boony Army Kevin

The Aussies looked slow and ponderous in Seattle, and the USA walked the game 2-0.

Team USA definitely have two things going for them outside of some pretty decent players. Togetherness and team spirit and home advantage. Neither of these should be underestimated as key factors and I would expect that to carry them through to the last 16 as an absolute minimum. Time will tell.

We spoke to so many fans and I have to say aside from the usual positive enthusiasm that you expect in the US, plenty knew plenty about the game.

The beer was truly excellent and well priced at $7 a pint, plus tip of course, and all local craft beer. I started on what I thought would be a one off, a peanut butter stout and seven pints later found myself changing lanes to a Pilsner in time for the Scotland vs Morocco game.

The bar was way less packed for the Scotland game but still very respectable. Reg 1, Reg 2, Mark and Supes joined us. I met Gary, originally from Wales, who was as USA fan. He knew everyone and introduced me to everyone. My ‘football’ shirt was causing a lot of confusion, you can see it in the picture below and work it out for yourselves, but it is always an ice breaker, not that you ever need that in America. Gary and his mate Logan introduced me to an ex MLS player who played to Nashville SC, I can’t remember his name, but he was a really nice bloke and asked me how I knew so much about soccer. Gary then changed his pitch when introducing me to everyone ‘this is Andy, he’s the only Englishman I have ever met who is a really nice bloke, positive and non judgmental’. That felt like a real compliment and something to be proud of. We met Molly and Kylie too who were young soccer fans, Kirsty immediately took them under her wing and needless to say, they were really lovely and watched the Scotland game with us.

L-R Supes, me, Mark, Reg 1, Reg2, Gary, Billy Kirsty and Logan

When the Moroccans scored in two minutes I really felt the worse for Scotland fearing a proper hiding. But they fought back and dominated the second half. If Scotland had a goal scorer, then they would be a really decent team. It was a shame they couldn’t get that equaliser in the second half. Let’s hope they can get a draw against the Brazilians.

So overall, a great day, with great people, great beer and a great atmosphere. Anyone who believes that Americans just don’t get football/soccer should think again. There’s plenty that do.

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Hey Honky Tonk, Welcome to Music City

Goodbye San Marcos, Austin Texas hello Nashville, Tennessee. I’ve really been looking forward to this trip to Music City. Like really looking forward to it!

And hey boy, hey girl, has not disappointed, it’s actually exceeded my expectations on every single measure.

Our hotel is on Lower Broadway directly opposite the Johnny Cash Museum, we are smack bang in the middle of the Honky Tonk Highway. You want live music? You want loud live music? You want multiple bands all playing live loud music all at once? You’ve got it. These Honky Tonk bars are everywhere. It’s like peak Woolworth’s Pick ‘n’ Mix but instead of sweets, it’s live music.

Our hotel
Our hotel directly opposite The Johnny Cash Museum

Our friends were also arriving in Nashville so we headed to The Fleet Street Pub. This is a pub run by an Englishman who is also clearly a Gooner. We met up with Obi, also a Gooner, who we last saw on the last night in Qatar and Reg (2), who is Billy the Bee’s brother who lives in the U.K. Both great people. Billy has asked me on to his and Laney’s Brentford FC podcast Beesotted a fair few times when West Ham play Brentford and is always the life and soul of any party!

We were on Gooner territory

We watched the Canada vs Qatar game on the big screen. Qatar got a 6-0 drubbing, and Canada don’t look like mugs at all. We very confused about table vs bar service, because there are ‘obviously’ two separate regimes running each and the tips ‘real estate’ seems to be where the real value is. Getting caught up in this tipping turf war ain’t for us. Welcome to America!

Kirsty drinking from The Modelo Boot presented to her by The Fleet Street Pub

At the end of the match we decided to change scene to one with bigger screens and actual commentary that we could hear. So we duly headed to Draft Kings where we were meeting up with the wonderful Reg 1, Mark, Supes and main orchestrator and all round good person, Billy, all of whom were coming in from Mexico.

Full team shot L-R: Mark, Supes, Kirsty, Me, Obi, Reg 2, Billy and Reg 1

Draft Kings is actually a betting company, so think a Paddy Power or Bet365 pub and ridiculously expensive. There were walls and walls of enormous screens and noise to watch the Mexico vs South Korea game on. Both teams looked unimpressive to be honest, and at the end of it, inevitable talk turned to a possible England vs Mexico in Mexico City down the line. Personally, I would love to go back to Mexico City and the Azteca Stadium. The last time I was there we lost 2-1 to Argentina to that goal and that other goal. It would be lovely to return and this time win.

And then back to Broadway, which is quite simply like nothing else I have witnessed. Literally thousands of people, thousands of pairs of Cowboy boots, Cowboy hats and Rhinestone everywhere. It’s like one big hen party sponsored by Ariat or Tony Lama (two of the big names in Cowboy boots). Humour is good and people are clearly out for a good time.

Broadway complete with the cacophony of Honky Tonk bars
Kirsty eyeing up a pair of Ariat Cowboy boots

We hit Chief’s Honky Tonk Bar which like most of the bars has about 5 floors of music. Two things stood out. The extremely high quality of the bands playing and the overall friendliness of the Americans.

And the band played on

For those of us who have travelled many times to the US, the friendliness and openness shouldn’t be a surprise.

Relentlessly optimistic, Americans are always interested in what you think of their country and why you are visiting. When you tell them that we are here for The World Cup, and yes, we were travelling round watching England play their World Cup games, they are all completely enchanted and confused in seemingly equal measure.

Two young lads, Owen and Ryan, were on the other side of the bar and were smiling and pointing over at us. Kirsty thought there was something up. I disagreed. 20 minutes later and my confidence was repaid. The boys were just happy to see ‘an old timer like me having fun’. I did say ‘less of the old’, but they were genuine if a little drunk. That was better than the comment some English fan said when he asked where I was from, always tough question. Is that where I was born, where I have lived, or where I live now? Anyway when I told him I lived in the Cotswolds, he quipped ‘you’ve made some money as you have clearly got a trophy wife’. I corrected him on both counts, but Kirsty found it hilarious. Mind you, when he told me where he was from, note I didn’t actually ask him, he said ‘South London, just outside Gatwick’ to which I replied ‘West Sussex then’. Fortunately him and his very drunk mate decided their night’s entertainment laid elsewhere.

Next up the USA vs Australia match. And we had an early start to make sure we got into the American Outlaws venue to see it.

Always keep things in perspective Kirsty

Y’all come back now…..

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Kane & Able

Finally, England are actually going to play a game of football.

In Dallas. In Texas. At the newly built Dallas Cowboy’s Stadium which can apparently take anywhere between 80,000 fully seated spectators to 100,000 when standing is allowed.

All my pre match anxiety about a 3pm local time kick off and the 90+ degrees heat was to evaporate as soon as we realised that the stadium had a roof and was air conditioned! But more of that later.

For us it’s a 6.30am start from our haven in San Marcos for the minimum four hour drive to Dallas. We travelled with our friends Mark and Sam, fellow West Ham supporters and truly good and funny people who were also staying in San Marcos.

06.30 Oh My God It’s Early!

But first, let’s talk Buc-ee’s. Apparently this really  is a Texas phenomenon which is now spreading throughout the US. All along the Freeway, you see Buc-ee’s advertised. There’s a consistency in the use of the logo and a very welcoming feel via a number of seemingly unique messages. Think motorway filling stations but instead of say 24 pumps, think 120 -150 pumps and a car park the size of a small housing estate.

That’s what comes when land is so plentiful I guess. Forget your average services with food and drink, think a mini Costco. It’s all sweet, sugary, salty, kitch, naff and totally unnecessary. Absolutely everything is Buc-ee’s branded. Yet it sells. And boy does sell. If you ever wanted the perfect embodiment of class A UPFs, Buc-ee’s delivers it to you eyes and nose, with bells on, and brightly coloured sugar coated ones at that. 

We need that second star on our shirt! (credit Mark for his marketing genius )

Locals extoll the virtues of crystal clear toilets. Rightly so. The Buc-ee’s staff are everywhere and working hard. And that is one of the many reasons why Buc-ees clearly works. Outside there’s a sandwich board with Big-ee’s jobs, starting with hourly dollar rates leading all the way up to annual salaries of $200k for store managers.  You cannot but admire how these places are run and how much loyalty to the brand there is from their millions of customers who actively seek out Buc-ee’s to get their essential gas for their journey. Oh and the company is privately held and is estimated to have revenues of between $3-5bn annually.  

Buc-ee’s clearly a company that rewards effort and commitment- just check those salaries out!

On the road we had to do a video for BBC Six O’Clock news. You can see it below, look out for my match score prediction.

We hit Arlington, Texas for 11.30am ahead of the 3pm kick off. It was incredibly hot and the location was home not only to the AT&T stadium where England were playing, but also the Global Life Field home to the MLB’s Texas Rangers and the historic Choctaw Stadium which was the former home of The Texas Rangers and is now home to North Texas SC and Dallas Jackals Rugby. It’s all really impressive and accessible. 

Three stadiums in one place!

Fans were everywhere, plenty of Croatian and England shirts everywhere, many of whom had travelled from their homelands for this and many who had heritage. We decided to get to the stadium early and it was a very easy process. I must admit my experienced eye got me thinking that it wouldn’t be too much of a problem to jib in. Only later did I read reports that some England fans had done exactly that. Hey ho.

We bumped into our friends Ashley and Thomas (Pompey and The Toon’s finest) and their colleagues from the FSA just inside the concourse. The FSA do a brilliant job for England fans and have been such a key force for good allowing the voice of fans to be heard at the highest levels of football. Long may that continue!

Beer inside the stadium was $19 for one can of beer. And of course they want a tip on absolutely everything. As Kirsty says, ‘you’ve not even moved, I’ve come to you!’ As all of you will know you don’t buy anything in the US without giving a tip, usually 20%. It’s utterly ridiculous to non Americans, but don’t tip and you will be on the end of a tirade of passive aggressive abuse! 

Chapeaux to England!

The stadium was truly magnificent, but my nerves were kicking in. I get pretty stressed by the whole thing and am guilty of questioning exactly who fellow fans are, why they are here and what credentials they have. I have to check myself otherwise I can get a little noughty. This World Cup is the most expensive ever and loads of my friends can’t come because ticket prices alone are off the scale. We got ours through the FA via their loyalty scheme, so they are amongst the cheapest and our travel and accommodation is super budget, it has to be. The thing is, out here, Americans are used to paying top price for sports and music events and appear to be completely accepting of the ticket prices. 

Two quick observations about booing.

First, it was good that the vast majority of England fans stopped a small minority booing the Croatian National Anthem. Second, that same vast majority of England fans did a grand job of leading the booing of the ‘hydration breaks’ or advertising breaks as most of us know them to be. Booing for good is the way ahead. Well done England fans!

What A Stadium

You all watched the game so you don’t need me to tell you what happened, suffice to say at half time I was more than nervous and thought we may have given the advantage to Croatia. England’s  second half performance was to prove just how much I know about football! It felt like a one off knock out game, Croatia game us a proper fight but the spirit of the England players, every single one of them, was something else. The leadership shown by Harry Kane who is now for me my modern day Bobby Moore, was at an even higher level than I have seen before and he carried the day. Whatever the (soon to be) great Thomas Tuchel said to the boys at half time worked. 

Harry Kane Nails The Retake

By the end of the game I felt completely and utterly rinsed out. Emotionally spent. All I wanted  was to get home. Thank god that stadium was fully air conditioned with a roof, it would have been a completely different game for both teams and all the fans under that intense Texas sun.

Happy Days

We met up with Mark and Sam, went back to the car and started on our four hour plus journey. We needed petrol on the way, so guess where we called in? Yep Buc-ee’s again.

Love Y’All
Wise Words

We needed to be back in time to do a live piece on BBC5Live Breakfast with Rick Edwards and Rachel Burden at 12.50am local time. It’s always a laugh with those two you can hear it below. 

BBC5Live Breakfast 6 Hours Ahead Of Us

What a day. England won a crucial game of football and won it well. We had a ball. But you know the best thing that happened? I got a message from the woman looking after my Mum  which said ‘Your Mum has just gone to bed, she’s exhausted after watching the football but she really enjoyed it and knew you and Kirsty were there’.

That brought a tear to my eye. Just like Harry and the boys did a few hours earlier. Nashville next. Fun times ahead.

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Tickets will never find you, you have to find them….

Tuesday 6th December 2022

I woke Kirsty up with, ‘right then, I need to go to work’. My wonderful wife looked slightly confused and retorted, ‘What? Where? When?’

As I have always said, tickets for World Cup and European Championships don’t find you. You have to go and find them. Time had slipped away yesterday, and I had got a little distracted by the incredible Test Match taking place in Rawalpindi between Pakistan and England. I was checking in on the score and talking to loads of India and Pakistan cricket fans out here. It was clear that this was one of the greatest Test Matches ever.

The final ball in the Test Match. What a picture!

By the time we had eaten we needed to crack on and get to the early kick off Japan vs Croatia game. So Monday was a complete write off ticket wise.

We had been checking the FIFA website pretty much continuously to see if we could get tickets for England’s quarter final game vs France, but there was nothing doing.

So I headed up to The West Bay Area to the DECC which is a big exhibition centre where FIFA have set up their ticketing centre. As I left, I said to Kirsty, ‘I am off to graft for these tickets. I wonder if Ten Stretch is in town?’ Kirsty said to me, ‘please don’t take a chance with that lot.’ I quipped, ‘leave it to me’, smiled and went on my way.

At the DECC I soon found plenty of touts with tickets. A few Russians tried to tap me up but not only did they look dodgy, they were also total blaggers. Eventually I found a local who had two tickets which were not absurdly priced. As I was negotiating with him, this geezer breezed past. I thought ‘that looks like Alfie, but he looks a bit more sun tanned than I remember. Was it just a local doppelgänger?

I caught him up, came alongside and shouted, ‘Alfie is that you?’. It was. It turned out he thought I was under cover Old Bill. He said to me, ‘take your hat and glasses off!’ As soon as I did, he recognised me. The local lad who was hoping to sell me some tickets was following me. Alfie, ever the consumate professional asked me if I was sorted. When I said no, not yet, he politely but firmly told the lad we did not need his services. Three minutes later I’ve got two tickets at face value and a drink for Alfie.

Here’s where the World Cup of coincidences rolled on, again. Alfie used to be Ten Stretch’s partner. Alfie told me that Ten had sadly died a few years ago, which was really sad to hear. Alfie’s been working the F1 stuff in the Gulf as well as still running tickets at Arsenal, Spurs, West Ham and Chelsea. He is one of the original ‘tickets, I’ll buy or sell’ boys from the 80’s and we’ve done loads of business down the years.

Kirsty was back at base, our hotel being converted to our latest ‘World Cup war room’. I had said that I would definitely get tickets for the game, but I am not sure she believed me. We needed to see if we could ask Sarah if she would extend her care cover for Our Joyce. If that was possible, we would need to change our flights and extend our hotel stay. But we needed to do it all as cheap as possible.

The War Room

I WhatsApp’d Kirsty with the good news that I ‘was holding’ and she could barely contain her excitement. Typical of Kirsty she kicked straight into top gear and got on the with flights and hotels. It was a very frenzied morning and eventually we met up for a very late lunch. We felt emotionally and physically drained but obviously elated!

We couldn’t hang about though. We needed to get off to the early kick off at the Education City Stadium which was happened to be the closest to our Old Town Doha base.

That game between Spain and Morocco promised to be another cracker. What we didn’t know was how much of a treat we would be in for. This game was going to be off the scale!

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For Africans, for Arabs this is Morocco!

Tuesday 6th December 2022.. later in the day

There is no doubt at all that Argentina and Morocco have the most fans and the most noisiest fans out here in Qatar. We had managed to see Argentina play and we had to admit, we really enjoyed the atmosphere their fans created. Now we had the chance to see Morocco play Spain and we sort of expected that the atmosphere was going to an even better.

This time we had to travel to the Education City Stadium which was a short Metro ride to the west of our base at Doha Old Town. Unlike the two previous games we travelled to, the Metro was packed solid and the atmosphere electric. Just like the Argentina vs Australia game. You could sense the anticipation amongst the Moroccan fans. I felt sorry for the Spanish. They were outnumbered and outgunned.

Our view from the front of the train

Education City was another piece of design brilliance and provided the centrepiece of Qatar’s centre of educational excellence. On the way to the stadium we felt a sense of disorganisation for the very first time out here. There were so many Moroccan fans and all in the sort of mood you would normally associate with passionate fans who know they needed to win, otherwise they would be headed home. Headed to the ground, we had to cross a railway line and then pass through lines and lines of police who resembled Robocops. That’s the first time a game had felt like a World Cup game of old.

There would be a clash of cultures ahead
Another amazing stadium
Kirsty and La’eeb the World Cup mascot

Because we had been working hard all day to extend our trip and get tickets for the France game we had to rush to eat and get to the game in good time. It was the early kick off game, 6pm local time. Consequently we had not had a chance to change into our rainbow gear. Hey ho. Getting through security would be far easier tonight.

We were lucky to be in the Moroccan end and witness a real clash of cultures. All the Moroccan fans would stand for the whole game, whilst Qataris tried to sit quietly and observe. In the end the Qataris had no choice but to stand up and go with the flow. In the World Cup of coincidences, we happened to be sitting to the exact same lad as we had done the night before at the Japan vs Croatia game. And the American Chinese guy who was obsessed with the game ending in a penalty shoot out.

These guys would not remain seated for the whole game
Happy to have my Tofu Eating Wokerati T shirt

As an aside, there has been a lot of talk about empty seats. We haven’t seen many, if any. One slightly amusing thing is that when Qataris sit at the match, it can look like the seats are white and empty. Look closely…

A few empty seats, but not many

The game was intense and noisy the whole way through. I am not sure I’ve been to a game like it, ever. Every time the Spanish got the ball, which was most of the time, the Moroccan fans produced a cacophony of whistles and boos. That was incredibly intimidating. If ever England were to play Morocco, we would have to steel ourselves to face this, and that could get very interesting.

Father Christmas and the Three Wise Men

Morocco did not deserve to lose the game. They ran, tackled, headed, threw themselves everywhere and just outcompeted Spain. The game remained 0-0 for two hours and so we had another penalty shoot out to endure. The penalties were to be taken at what was supposed to the Spanish end, yet even that end was stuffed full of Moroccan fans. You just knew it was going to be tough for Spain tonight.

Spain’s penalties were like Japan’s from the night before. Woeful. Morocco’s were exemplary. As the Arabs would say, ‘Inshallah’, it is written. And it was. Morocco won a famous victory, one for Africa and one for Arabs.

The winning Moroccan penalty
Me and my Qatari mate
Kirsty and her Moroccan mate

There are many things to be aware of out here in Qatar. Whilst everyone is exceptionally polite, Qatari men are culturally more cautious speaking to women than they are speaking to men. I have had plenty of conversations with Qatari men, less so Kirsty. Men will shake hands with men, but it’s a fist bump at best for women. That’s how it is.

Our journey back to base was a lot of fun. Moroccans everywhere were in fine voice and full of joy. I did say to Kirsty, ‘I wonder what this lot would be like if they lost!’ We wanted to see the Portugal vs Switzerland game on the TV. So we tried the ‘Irish Bar’ in the hotel next to us. That was a typical football bar, full of all sorts of fans but it seemed that literally everyone was smoking. We bumped into Aussie Glen who we’d met earlier and he introduced me to his Brazilian mate, Carlos. When I named the 11 players who played in the World Cup winning Brazilian team in 1970, Carlos embraced me and said ‘you are now my brother, will I see you in 2026?’ I said ‘Inshallah’.

Carlos, me and Glen

At half time I said to Kirsty ‘let’s go to the sports bar in our hotel’, as I was getting a tad bored in the one we were in. We were in two minds about that bar, given that it felt a bit weird. Tonight it was a different kettle of fish. There were loads more people in the bar for a kick off and there was some atmosphere too. At the end of the game, we were treated to an Indian DJ who played some proper floor bangers. Fast forward 15 minuets and were singing, dancing, embracing and hugging with a load of Moroccans. They bought us drinks and refused to take any back. That is the sort of thing that can happen at World Cups. Long may it continue!

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40 years on, another World Cup

I first watched the World Cup (note when it wasn’t explicitly denominated as the FIFA World Cup) when I was seven years old on the telly. It was held in Mexico and the year was 1970. England were the defending World Champions and I was hoping they could win the World Cup again.

In the lead up to the football, I remember Dad being unusually pushy about me and Mum going out to the shops for some reason. When we got back from the shops, I wondered what the big wooden box was in the front room. I can still remember the absolute joy and wonder when Dad slid the doors back to reveal a TV! But the real wonder happened when he switched it on and everything was in colour! I watched every game I could and collected my player stickers for my book, which I still have. I also collected all the coins that had individual England footballers on them to make up the whole England squad, all 30 of them. Dad got these for me every time he filled up with petrol from Esso stations. I still have this too and am looking at it as I write this blog.

England played Romania, Brazil and Czechoslovakia and I can remember the games, the colours and THAT save by Gordon Banks, like it was yesterday. England then played West Germany and famously went 2-0 up only to lose 2-3. I cried myself to sleep that night, but vowed to go to a World Cup as soon as I was old enough.

England never qualified for the World Cups in 1974 in Germany and 1978 in Argentina, but I was too young to travel anyway. I always said I would go to the World Cup, but will always remember my Mum saying to me, ‘no you won’t‘, to which I said, ‘I will, and I will go every time England qualify‘. And therein lies the root of this whole problem…..if it is a World Cup and England are in it, I have to be there.

So when England qualified for the World Cup in Spain in 1982, I was going to be there, no matter what. I duly took the ‘Magic Bus’ from Victoria coach station in London all the way to a place called Bilbao. Legend has it that Bilbao was specifically selected to be England’s base for the group games because it was an industrial city with a reputation for being a tough place. Our group games saw us play France, Kuwait and Czechoslovakia (again). We won all three games, scoring the fastest goal in World Cup history, a record which still stands today. I will never forget the white paint on the terraces was still wet when we watched the French concede that early goal and the first of three.

It was an eventful World Cup on so many levels, not least England got knocked out without losing a game, or missing penalties (penalty shoot outs did not happen back then), but went out on goal difference in the round robin knock out round, having drawn 0-0 with West Germany and the hosts, Spain. It also saw me in hospital and appearing on the telly and on the radio much to the horror of my Mum. That story is one for another day.

As we head to Qatar today, for what will be my ninth World Cup and Kirsty’s fourth, there has been much soul searching and much controversy around the human rights record of the host nation. The thing is, this is nothing new. Indeed the World Cup of 1978 was held in Argentina. That was marred by controversy, domestic politics, and alleged interference and match-fixing by the Argentine authoritarian military junta government, who were using the World Cup as an opportunity for nationalistic propaganda, and for the relatively new military junta to seek legitimacy on the world stage.

Fast forward to Spain in 1982 and few will remember that the fascist dictator, Francisco Franco had only died seven years before in 1975 thus ending his 36 year dictatorial rule over Spain. Franco was conservative and a monarchist, and opposed the abolition of the monarchy and the establishment of a republic in 1931. He was good friends with Hitler and Mussolini, and the rest they say, is history.

But back in1982 Spain was relatively new to the whole democracy thing, and different regions had not forgotten their bitter Spanish Civil War allegiances. We discovered the rivalry, bordering on hatred, between Catalonia and the rest of Spain. This was repeated in the Basque region, the capital of which was Bilbao, who also hated Spain and wanted their independence. ETA were the ‘terrorist’ or ‘freedom fighter’ group who were conducting an active bombing campaign at the time we were actually there. It was all very reminiscent of the IRA. Back then you never saw Cross of St George flags at England matches, it was always Union Flag, the red, white and blue one. The Basque flag was exactly the same design as the England (sic) flag, but in green, red and white and it seemed the Basques had a great affinity with us English/British and sided with us when we had various run ins with the Spanish police, who were armed and had all been sent from Madrid.

As we head off to Qatar, another country which has a different political culture to the UK, we’ve learned to take things in our stride and see how everything pans out. We know Qatar does not recognise all human rights the same way we do in the UK and are seemingly getting a little flustered about rainbow flags. We hope to enjoy our trip and learn some new stuff, whilst making a point or two around the ‘live and let live‘ mantra that makes Kirsty and I tick.

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J’Accuse

This title, which has become part of the English language in a particular  famous letter printed by French newspaper L’Aurore in January 13th 1898 penned by Emile Zola. Now this name is made up of 2 unique  names, both of which we associate with football, and close, it must be said to my heart.

Gianfranco Zola, the wonderful footballer and possibly the nicest man in football disgracefully treated by the new owners of West Ham, messrs David Gold and Sullivan and Emile Heskey, the England footballer who has just announced his retirement from international football.

J’accuse the owners of West Ham and J’accuse the world for the abuse heaped on poor old Emile. He is not the best footballer in England,  he does not possess the finest of touches and does not read the game in the same way as players such as Shearer and Sheringham, but at least he always tried. How must he feel time and time again in the run up to an international game. It starts with his selection as a squad member, always universally met with howls of derison from the media. Then, heaven forbid, he gets picked for a game and the media and the fans howl again. If he is substituted, he is often seen off to a chorus of disapproval. Worse still his name is used in a song sung by the fans in an attempt at irony, ‘ 5-1 and even Heskey scored’ , doubly ironic as this was the baiting cry that heradled the opening exchanges between English and German fans in Bloemfontein a few weeks back. His goal scoring record is worse than Rene Higuita and Jose Luis Chilaver, both internationals for Columbia and Paraguay respectively, and both goalkeepers.

So he has tied his last international bootlace up and will never be seen in the England colours again, unless Robbie Williams tempts him one more time for Soccer Aid.  I bet he is actually relieved to be away from the whole furore. Let’s face it, all he ever did was agree to play, and that many managers have picked him, from memory Capello, O’Neill, Bruce, Houlier, Eriksson, McClaren, Keegan and more it goes to show that there is consistency. So don’t blame Heskey, please. It’s like picking a one armed pianist to play at your wedding, whilst you may get the semblance of a tune, it will not be balanced or indeed what you were expecting. What it does highlight is one, simple fact. England just do not have many good forwards and given that the heir apparent to Heskey is either Darren Bent or Gabriel Agbonlahor, well it a’int going to get better before it stays the same or even gets worse.  J’accuse the system that simply does not produce footballers who have technique over power, touch over pace, balance over strength and intelligence over brawn. Emile, I salute you, you did your best and that’s that.

One last thought. My approach to the current England football team is not to drop them all and start again, yet. Rather Capello should pick the same 11 that started against Germany, barring Emile and anyone else who announces their retirement from international football and let them face the few who pay good money to attend the ‘friendly’ against another faded nation, Hungary, on August 11th. I for one will be attending that game, and it will be very interesting to see what actually happens that night. Hungary arguably showed England the way to play in1953 when they thumped us 6-3. We are one game on from year zero, so let’s indulge the old regime one last time and start afresh after the fans who travelled to support their team in South Africa have had their catharsis. That or change the whole lot at half time……

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The Legacy of the World Cup

Not my words but the words of Peter Delonno from Business Report. Incidentally the British couple mentioned at the foot of the page under Cyberspace is in fact Kirsty and I. Funny old world. Enjoy!

http://www.busrep.co.za/index.php?fSectionId=552&fArticleId=4102101

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