New York, New Jersey, New Friends

Matchday again. Always a nervous time when you support England and West Ham. And always a busy time too.

I got up early and popped round to Pecks to get some breakfast for myself, Kirsty, Jordan and Nathan to set all of us up for long day ahead. Jordan and Nathan had a busy day ahead but weren’t coming to the game. Pecks is one of those places that sells ‘sandwiches’ that come in all shapes and very big sizes. Nathan said that the man who makes the sandwiches has made them for as long as he has lived in Brooklyn so estimated it was probably something like 800 plus for him alone!

Pecks in Brooklyn

Kirsty and I walked for about 15 mins and took the Subway at Clinton Washington into Manhattan and Penn Station. We jumped into a supermarket, picked up some beers and seltzers and headed for the train. The New Jersey Transit system had laid on trains that went to the stadium. Very reasonably priced at over $200 for the two of us! The ride was about 30 mins!

We had to queue into Penn Station, show our match and train tickets and get a wristband. The whole station had been closed to anyone not travelling to the game and the queue gently wound through the station. Everyone was packed onto the trains, standing room only, until they were full and sent on our way. We met a nice couple who were on their way to their first ever soccer game, so we shared our beers and briefed them as to what to expect. Boo the hydration breaks and boo any random celebrities that FIFA deemed to put on the screen. They found it hilarious.

Kirsty improvising in the luggage rack

We were all off the train at Seacaucus and then all on another train to head to the Met Life stadium. You would have thought we would have had a direct train for $200! It turned out that our friends Paul and Johnny, both West Ham fans were also on the same train as us, but at the back so we agreed to wait on the station to meet up. That all worked smoothly and the next stop was to find somewhere to drink.

Johnny, Kirsty, Paul and myself

As with all these US stadiums, there really isn’t much by way of local infrastructure. Stadiums are very much out of town and on retail parks. More West Ham friends Colin and Barrie were already in position at the American Dream mall and so we headed over to there. As we walked through the multi storey car park, who should we bump into but Colin and Barrie! They were headed to the stadium, so time for a quick catch up and pictures and onwards.

Johnny, Kirsty, me, Colin, Barrie and Paul

The mall was full to the brim with football fans, a huge amount of Panama fans, which is unsurprising given the size of the Panamanian diaspora here, which is much like every other diaspora, enormous! Every bar was rammed and the queues were all over an hour. Our friends Kelvin and Liza had found a place called Dream 360 which was an Asian restaurant with a bar. They had managed to get in and so Paul, Johnny, Kirsty and myself slipped in. We told our friends Mark and Sam to meet there too. As with all these places it was chaos. They just aren’t geared up for thirsty football supporters and simply cannot cope. We managed to order up 32 beers so that we didn’t waste time in future.

The flags are out

It was now 2pm, with the game some three hours away. All was well. It was tipping down with rain outside. Yet again we were being spared hot temperatures on match day. A real blessing, not for us but for the team.

You need beer?

We decided to head to the stadium in good time, you can never rely on how long it takes to get through security, so always best to allow more time. As always, the security staff and police were all really friendly and pretty efficient. I bid Kelvin farewell, we were both nervous and both predicted 2-1 to England.

Security was easy to get through

The atmosphere was electric, every single fan played their part. Hats off to everyone really, it’s what makes The World Cup very, very special. We bumped into our old friend Shane, a fellow veteran of many World Cups and took some pictures. Pictures which none of us had been able to locate since!

Believe and all that

As kick off approached rain was getting heavier and heavier but it wasn’t cold. We were right behind the goal, again so really close to the action.

Wet and anxious pre-match
Our view for the match

England could not afford to fall into the same trap that Ghana laid for us with their low block and excessively defensive approach. Panama were effectively playing for pride as they were out, but those teams are always the most dangerous. Tuchel had changed the team, out went Noni, Spence, Gordon, James and Rice, in came Rashford, Saka, Rogers, O’Reilly and Quansah. At no stage in the game did I ever not think we were in full control of the game and we were not going to do anything except win, but clearly back home that wasn’t the case given the amount of messages I was getting from all of my friends all of which were resoundingly and universally negative. It confirms what I have always thought, the game you watch live at the stadium is nothing like the one you see on TV.

Not quite halfway there. That’s the next game. But you get what Kirsty means.

Anyway, after a bit of toil, we scored twice and ran out 2-0 winners. Relief all round. Atlanta here we come as Senegal awaits. Or so we thought.

Hey Jude

We met up with Mark, Sam, Kelvin, Liza, Barrie, Colin, Steve and his son in the same bar, watched the Colombia vs Portugal and DR Congo vs Uzbekistan all at the same time. Somehow, our opponents in the round of 32 became DR Congo and not Senegal. Does anyone actually know how the system of third place teams and who they play actually works? Whoever you end up playing in the knockouts, it’s pure jeopardy. Literally winner takes all, losers go home, players and fans!

Our HQ pre and post-match

We let the human traffic calm down and headed back to Penn. We were off to a rooftop Pride party in Williamsburg, which really is a cool part of town.

As we approached, we heard our friends shouting down at us and as if by magic, a front door key arrived on a rope for us to key ourselves in. How cool was that!

Our view post party

Everyone, and I mean everyone at the party was so lovely. We met so many great people. Nathan was DJing and did an amazing job. Jordan made sure we met everyone. We took a cab home with Robyn and Tim who were hilarious and couldn’t get the door open for a while. Don’t ask.

A perfect end to a perfect day.

Thank you New York & New Jersey.

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We’re on the Hype Train

So long Providence, Rhode Island, hello New York and the fifth US state we have visited thus far.

We took the Amtrak train for around three and a half hours into Penn Station and was really easy, comfortable and efficient. It was a pretty scenic journey for most of the way and just so much easier than flying.

This could be England

We came through a swampy piece on the outskirts of New York which I discovered was Pelham, something that chimed with me from my childhood when my Mum took me to see ‘The Taking of Pelham 1-2-3.

Penn(sylvania) station was as busy as any major station in any major city is, the difference being the world famous Madison Square Garden is plonked right on top of the station.

In the end, we decided to take an Uber to where we were staying in Brooklyn, which ended up really not being as indulgent as I thought it would be. It was a really easy drive from Midtown passing by the famous Madison Avenue, home to the advertising industry and original Mad Men, past The Flat Iron, through Noho, past the Tenement Museum, down through Chinatown, over the Brooklyn Bridge, past Fort Greene Park to our home for a few days just off Vanderbilt Avenue.

Penn Station and Madison Square Garden

Our Uber driver was the first of six who said absolutely nothing at all during the whole ride which was a surprise. Every other taxi driver had chatted all the way, but not this guy.

We are staying with our friends Jordan and Nathan and their friend Maya was also in town. We watched the France vs Norway game together whilst catching up. France just look so good. Norway made ten changes, so no Haaland or Ødegaard, but even so, France cruised to a 4-1 victory. They really do have it all and for me are the team to beat out here.

Then we sauntered out to eat locally at Osteria Brooklyn, all walkable in an area that reminded me very much of Chiswick. It was an Italian run my Mexicans and the food was delicious. Sitting outside on the street was great and we enjoyed the locals on their oversized motorbikes, whilst also being able to catch the Spain vs Uruguay out of the corner of my eye.

Osteria Brooklyn

A really lovely, relaxed evening ahead of a big day in New Jersey for the Panama game. A game we have to win really, even though we discovered later that England had qualified into the last 32 via the totally insane FIFA system that weeds out the top eight from 12 third place teams. We also found out that the New Zealand vs Belgium game was the 63rd game of the World Cup. Previous World Cups only ever had 64 games in total.

Jordan, Nathan, myself, Maya and Kirsty

As it stands right now and if we win our group, we will play Senegal in the next round. That will be very, very tough even more so given they beat us 1-3 in a friendly at The City Ground, Nottingham last year.

We got to bed after the New Zealand vs Belgium game and our view over the city was spectacular.

Our view at night

Today it’s another early start, a very expensive train to New Jersey and hopefully a good England performance and a 2-1 win. We live in hope!

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Newport, RI, the home of Carter Pewterschmidt and Electric Dylan

As big Family Guy fans, we just had to take a trip to Newport, Rhode Island and the surrounding area. Add to the fact that the Newport Folk Festival of 1965 was the place where the controversial ‘Electric Dylan’ first happened, and it was a must visit for us.

Dex kindly agreed to pick us up at 3pm, as I had to do a call with the West Ham Fan Advisory Board and couldn’t get out of it. Fortunately, that call was well worth the time as the new regime at West Ham is bringing the changes that we all have wanted for so many years. We planned to meet up with Sam and Mark who had made their own way there, so we could all meet up for the Scotland vs Brazil game.

Newport is a pleasant 50 minute drive from Providence crossing two massive and highly impressive bridges to get into the town itself. The water is chocked full of boats of varying sizes and price tickets and the houses are all of wooden construction and incredibly pleasing on the eye.

The view from The Smugglers

As we winded into town we passed The Tennis Hall of Fame Tennis Centre, home to a Real Tennis court and one of only four grass courts used on the pro Tennis circuit globally. We also passed by Cardines Field, one of the oldest and most classic baseball stadiums in the US. It is home to the Newport Gulls who play in the New England Collegiate Baseball League (NECBL). Cardines Field is on America’s Cup Avenue, reminding us all that Newport was the spiritual home to The America’s Cup from 1930-1983.

The Tennis Hall of Fame

It was clear that there was real wealth in this town and it reminded me of the famous quote by Alistair Cooke in his ‘ Letter to America’ series, ‘One hundred years after the declaration that all men are created equal, there began to gather in Newport a colony of the rich, determined to show that some Americans were conspicuously more equal than others.’

Newport is that living definition of ‘Old Money’ alluded to by Cooke. The Astors, Vanderbilts, Dukes, Kennedys, Berwinds, Belmonts and the Morgans (of JP Morgan) all owned huge properties dating back to The Gilded Age. We drove around Bellevue Avenue, Ocean Drive and Ocean Avenue, and yes it was all very impressive, think Wayne Manor meets The Great Gatsby. Carter Pewterschmidt, Peter Griffin’s father in law from Family Guy would have lived here of course. Which explains a lot.

Maybe Mark Twain summed it all up rather more tersely than Alistair Cooke felt he needed to. Very much American Direct vs British Understatement?

“Newport, Rhode Island, that breeding place–that stud farm, so to speak–of aristocracy; aristocracy of the American type.”

Look carefully…

We found a great bar on the waterfront called The Smugglers to watch the Brazil vs Scotland game. A terrible disappointment littered with errors saw the Scots lose 3-0 and with that, most likely exit the World Cup, although the wait for the teams who finish in third place who play early is a real design fault on the part of FIFA geniuses who wanted a 48 team World Cup in the first place.

Half time Scotland vs Brazil

The following day we visited Matunuck, had a delicious meal in the Matunuck Oyster Restaurant and then headed up to the Brenton State Park to fly a kite, knock a football around and have some iced lemonade. We were rubbish at kite flying and playing football, but the lemonade and scenery were off the scale. We said our sad farewells to Dex and headed back to Providence to watch the Japan vs Sweden game (2-2) and the USA vs Türkiye game (3-2). It was a couple of long days and nights, but very, very good ones.

Matunuck Oyster Restaurant
The beach at Matunuck

As I reflected on our time in Newport and its history, it reminded Milton Friedman, he of the American economist and statistician from the Chicago School of Economics, who rejected Keynesianism in favour of monetarism. He advised Ronald Reagan and Margaret Thatcher, and as they say, the rest is history.

The Montgoflier Wright Brothers mash up

“A society that puts equality before freedom will get neither.” – Milton Friedman

To which I would proffer, ‘really?’…

If a picture paints a thousand words….

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Newport, RI, the home of Carter Pewterschmidt and Electric Dylan

As big Family Guy fans, we just had to take a trip to Newport, Rhode Island and the surrounding area. Add to the fact that the Newport Folk Festival of 1965 was the place where the controversial ‘Electric Dylan’ first happened, and it was a must visit for us.

Dex kindly agreed to pick us up at 3pm, as I had to do a call with the West Ham Fan Advisory Board and couldn’t get out of it. Fortunately, that call was well worth the time as the new regime at West Ham is bringing the changes that we all have wanted for so many years. We planned to meet up with Sam and Mark who had made their own way there, so we could all meet up for the Scotland vs Brazil game.

Newport is a pleasant 50 minute drive from Providence crossing two massive and highly impressive bridges to get into the town itself. The water is chocked full of boats of varying sizes and price tickets and the houses are all of wooden construction and incredibly pleasing on the eye.

The view from The Smugglers

As we winded into town we passed The Tennis Hall of Fame Tennis Centre, home to a Real Tennis court and one of only four grass courts used on the pro Tennis circuit globally. We also passed by Cardines Field, one of the oldest and most classic baseball stadiums in the US. It is home to the Newport Gulls who play in the New England Collegiate Baseball League (NECBL). Cardines Field is on America’s Cup Avenue, reminding us all that Newport was the spiritual home to The America’s Cup from 1930-1983.

The Tennis Hall of Fame

It was clear that there was real wealth in this town and it reminded me of the famous quote by Alistair Cooke in his ‘ Letter to America’ series, ‘One hundred years after the declaration that all men are created equal, there began to gather in Newport a colony of the rich, determined to show that some Americans were conspicuously more equal than others.’

Newport is that living definition of ‘Old Money’ alluded to by Cooke. The Astors, Vanderbilts, Dukes, Kennedys, Berwinds, Belmonts and the Morgans (of JP Morgan) all owned huge properties dating back to The Gilded Age. We drove around Bellevue Avenue, Ocean Drive and Ocean Avenue, and yes it was all very impressive, think Wayne Manor meets The Great Gatsby. Carter Pewterschmidt, Peter Griffin’s father in law from Family Guy would have lived here of course. Which explains a lot.

Maybe Mark Twain summed it all up rather more tersely than Alistair Cooke felt he needed to. Very much American Direct vs British Understatement?

“Newport, Rhode Island, that breeding place–that stud farm, so to speak–of aristocracy; aristocracy of the American type.”

Look carefully…

We found a great bar on the waterfront called The Smugglers to watch the Brazil vs Scotland game. A terrible disappointment littered with errors saw the Scots lose 3-0 and with that, most likely exit the World Cup, although the wait for the teams who finish in third place who play early is a real design fault on the part of FIFA geniuses who wanted a 48 team World Cup in the first place.

Half time Scotland vs Brazil

The following day we visited Matunuck, had a delicious meal in the Matunuck Oyster Restaurant and then headed up to the Brenton State Park to fly a kite, knock a football around and have some iced lemonade. We were rubbish at kite flying and playing football, but the lemonade and scenery were off the scale. We said our sad farewells to Dex and headed back to Providence to watch the Japan vs Sweden game (2-2) and the USA vs Türkiye game (3-2). It was a couple of long days and nights, but very, very good ones.

Matunuck Oyster Restaurant
The beach at Matunuck

As I reflected on our time in Newport and its history, it reminded Milton Friedman, he of the American economist and statistician from the Chicago School of Economics, who rejected Keynesianism in favour of monetarism. He advised Ronald Reagan and Margaret Thatcher, and as they say, the rest is history.

The Montgoflier Wright Brothers mash up

“A society that puts equality before freedom will get neither.” – Milton Friedman

To which I would proffer, ‘really?’…

If a picture paints a thousand words….

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A Human Rights Movement Disguised as a Coffee Shop

We’ve been staying in Providence, the capital of Rhode Island, the USA’s smallest state. And it really has been lovely. We are staying just off Benefit Street, which is straight out of the 18th century, all wooden houses and exceptionally well cared for. The irony is that our AirBnB in this wonderful neighborhood is super budget. Once again full credit to Kirsty for doing all the research and finding yet another winning home for a few days.

We are on the lower floor of this lovely house

Providence has a lot of universities and design schools and it shows. There’s a good degree of relaxed liberal places to eat, all of which are a welcome respite from the relentless fried food we seem to be surrounded by.

Built soon after American Independence
This could be Suffolk

But the highlight of Providence for me has been the coffee shop I found along the road from ours called Bitty & Beau’s. From the outside it looks modern, clean and new. Once inside if you are awake, you see the full range of merch they have for sale and the graphics around the wall.

Bitty & Beau’s

Their story is rather inspiring. Founded in North Carolina by Amy & Ben Wright couple who are parents of four children — Lillie, Emma Grace, Beau and Bitty. Lillie was born with autism, and Bitty & Beau were born with Down syndrome.

Their story

After learning over 80% of people with intellectual and developmental disabilities are unemployed in the USA, the Wrights decided to create a place where people with disabilities are valued & given opportunity for meaningful work. Their model? Well it seems to be coffee shop, with unforgettable staff that aims to change the way people see other people.

Their mission

For me, that’s a business with a real purpose. I’ve been in all three mornings since we arrived to collect our morning coffee and I have seen different team members. I managed to have a chat with one woman who was clearly a supervisor/leader and we talked about how historic the area we are staying is, her love of Portugal, as that’s where her family came from. That inevitably led to talk of the football and the World Cup. She was absolutely shocked snd stunned that we were traveling around watching England play.

I love this

Today I had another chat with a man who was in charge and he filled me in about the history of the company and philosophy of the business. We also talked about football, the US national team and Liverpool FC who he supported because of the Fenway Sports Group connection.

It was their first summer of trading in Providence and he said they were missing the students who were all on their holidays as the students really did support Bitty & Beau’s. That was great to hear and really has inspired me. Contrary to what many outsiders say, there’s much to be inspired about in America. None of us should ever forget that, even if they do seem to be a tad divided right now.

Maybe Americans should be a little more Bitty & Beau’s. Greatness is not always where you expect it to be.

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When The Yellow Bus Gets Parked Up….

Well my prediction was 3-0 to England vs Ghana. How wrong could I be? And I also thought it would be hot in Boston but it was cool and wet. What was predictable was that it was another totally exhausting game to watch pretty much the norm with England! But more on that later.

We woke up at Dex and Kara’s to typical Old England weather. Grey skies and rain. Dex rustled up a great breakfast and then insisted on driving us to the stadium. Such a brilliant friend.

The stadium is the home of the NFL’s New England Patriots. But much like the RyanAir or EasyJet model of ‘London Stansted’ or ‘London Luton’, the Gillette Stadium is nowhere near Boston. It is actually in Foxborough which is at least 45-60 mins by car away. Dex, a big Ghana fan for the day, dropped us just short of Patriot Park. Patriot Park looks like a typical retail park surrounded by car parks leading up to an area with bars and restaurants. Apparently US sports fans tail-gate for match days. Tail-gating is when you park up the oversized car and have beers and oversized food out of the back with your friends. Today though, with a combination of the weather and the sheer number of England and Ghana fans present, that just wasn’t going to happen.

Kirsty on brand

So the pressure was on the bars near the ground which were totally overrun with fans and the English and the Ghanans were in fine voice. We had four sets of friends we were trying to catch up with. We couldn’t get into two of the bars to see two sets of those friends, but managed to meet up with two lots in one bar and have a good time pre match.

Suzy, Mark, Sean and Kirsty – what’s with all the England shirts?

The walk to the stadium took in a short cut through a cinema complete with non working escalators, much to the surprise of the cinema staff. We sailed through security and everything was so much easier than expected. We waved goodbye to Sean, Suzy, Callum, Fabian, Mark and Sam as we all found our way to where were sitting. We met up with Steve our Forest friend and had a proper laugh.

With the Ghanaians
Don’t mess with the MPs
Me and K with Forest Steve

The stadium was similarly impressive to Dallas although a good bit older. Our seats were low and right behind the goal. Perfect for the action to come.

Our view

Both national anthems were impeccably respected, well done England fans, and a great game looked like it was ahead of us.

A huge pre-match ceremony

It was great to see the usual booing of the hydration breaks and those ‘celebrities’ who FIFA have now decided to name with captions. That must be because so many fans inside the grounds just had no clue as to who these people are. Consequently Mumford & Sons got a round of boos, in sharp contrast to David Beckham who got a huge reception with a round of ‘There’s only one David Beckham’, another nice touch from the England fans.

Ubiquitous ‘here we go’ pic

Let’s face it Ghana set up to not concede and made it really hard for England to break them down. Frustrating for the boys and frustrating to watch all round.  

But despite all of that Saka, Guei, Kane and O’Reilly all had great chances towards the end. O’Reilly’s leap reminded me of the great Billy The Fish as he was about a foot higher than anyone else, which is saying something given those Ghanaian defenders were all massive!

Close but no cigar

Sadly, though a win was not to be but it could have been a complete disaster as it appears we were lucky not to concede a penalty with that Konsa challenge towards the end.

Just as Nico hit the crossbar and Harry blasted over

Two steps forward one step back? Maybe. But let’s face it, from what we have seen out here, Argentina, France, Spain, Portugal, Morocco, Columbia, Netherlands, and a few more all look good. If we can get to be in the top eight, we will be doing well.

Next stop is New Jersey on Saturday. We need to win against Panama and try and get back to the levels of that second half performance against Croatia. Let’s see how Panama set up against us. They are out of the World Cup so have absolutely nothing to lose. Game on. We hope!

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Victory is Mine…..?

Goodbye Nashville, Tennessee and hello Providence, Rhode Island. You really couldn’t have two more different States. Think Dolly Parton to Family Guy in a couple of hours flight!

We Ubered it to our AirBnb. Early impressions were just fantastic. Our home for a few days is a very old, wooden building with an eclectic interior design taste and furnishings and extremely homely on a very tight budget. Happy days.

Here’s the house in Providence – we have the ground floor

We had a very easy Monday morning in Providence the highlight being a WhatsApp call with Dad. That really made me cry but was so lovely to see and talk to my Dad and Mum.

Seeing and talking to Dad and Mum was brilliant

I picked up some coffees at Bitty & Beau’s which was a lovely coffee shop. It was founded by a couple and offers jobs for people with disabilities and the team were super helpful and welcoming. The woman who served me was fascinated by fact that we were following England around. She was from Portuguese heritage and knew all about the Portuguese team and their challenges given the ‘Ronaldo’ factor.

We decided to take the Argentina vs Austria game on the big screen from Dallas in the local fan park. The weather had turned a little colder and wetter. That did seem to have an effect on the numbers of people watching the game out in the open. The majority of football shirts being worn were Argentinian and every single one bore the number 10 and Messi on their backs. We met a lovely Ecuadorian couple who lived locally and talked football. They seemed to like living in the US, but also said that they missed their homeland. They were slightly bewildered and struggled to get their head around what we were doing watching football on a Monday afternoon. As for following England around North America, well they were absolutely fascinated.

Providence Fan Park
The rain put a premium on seats with umbrellas
Umbrellas in New England seemed rather appropriate

We had laid plans to meet up with our very dear friend and part-time Ghana fan, Dex, who lives just outside Boston. Dex generously cooked dinner at his and his wife, Kara and Conor, their son’s house and then to take us to the Ghana game today.

Dex picked us up from ours just after the end of the game, a game where Messi broke the record for scoring goals at the World Cup, surpassing Miroslav Klose’s previous record. That felt right given the utter brilliance of the little Argentinian maestro. two goals in that game to add to the three in his first game. Surely the Golden Boot this time round will hit double figures?

Family Guy territory

We called in to pick up some beers and really enjoyed watching France vs Iraq from Philadelphia with Dex’s friend Sean who we had last met in Boston twenty years ago at Dex and Kara’s wedding. I predicted a 3-0 win for France. We at least saw the first half of the game until the enormous storm stopped the game for two hours from half time onwards. Dex told us that if there is a lightning storm within 15 miles of the stadium, they have to be evacuated. Camera crews on gantries and spectators in stands constructed in metal are real dangers to life. It happens all the time out here and they just hold the game until the storm passes and spectators get back into the stadium.

The chef and his apprentice

Whilst all this was going on, Norway vs Senegal was getting underway in New Jersey, the same stadium we will be at for the last England group game at the weekend. This was a real classic of a game. Norway with Haaland are a great side and Senegal’s front line are so dangerous. It topped up 3-2 Norway and guaranteed their safe passage into the second round, with Senegal’s future in the competition hanging by a very fine thread.

We had a BBC5Live Breakfast piece to do and then to bed.

Our BBC5Live Breakfast piece

Today’s the day we head to the Foxborough Stadium for the Ghana game. Like a lot of these stadia, they appear to be nowhere near the ‘host’ city, in this case Boston which is 45-60 mins away. It’s a bit like London Stansted or London Luton airports.

I am feeling unusually confident about the game, and have even predicted a 3-0 win for England. Time will tell.

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U.S.A, U.S.A…

As always, when travelling at a football tournament, for us, the art is to try and get the best atmosphere for each game we are not actually at in person. So that means finding like minded football fans. Simple as that.

Billy has found a suitable place to watch the USA vs Australia game. The Tailgate Brewery Music Row which is where the American Outlaws Nashville (AO Nashville), the local chapter of the largest official supporters group for the U.S. Men’s and Women’s National Soccer Teams meet up. The chapter coordinates watch parties, travel, and community events for U.S. soccer fans across the Music City.

We needed to be there early so walked the 30 minutes from our hotel in the hot Tennessee sun.

We were first in from our group and got a table . Billy and Supes joined us as the whole place started to fill up with USA soccer fans. And let’s put this one to bed, yes the Americans call it soccer, but remember my grandad’s generation did too. As we would grow to appreciate, plenty of Americans know their soccer. So enough of the snobbery.

Billy, me, Kirsty and Supes getting ready

Before kick off, the American Outlaws representatives took to the stage and did their piece for their supporters group. Unlike most English football fan groups, the Outlaws seem to have a very sharp way of monetising themselves with all sorts of sponsorship deals and activations. But hey, this is America, and everyone and everything is for sale. Plus tax, service and tips!

COD sponsor the American Outlaws

I had high hopes that Australia fresh from a 2-0 victory over Turkey would put up a proper fight against Team USA. That was not to be.

We offered a lone Aussie, Kevin, a seat at our table and the few Aussies that were there were all pretty underwhelmed by their performance. The locals were loud and supportive with their frequent chants of ‘USA, USA…’ and the Fox TV pundits included Thierry Henry and Alexi Lalas, he of the long ginger hair and goatee beard back in the 90’s. Think Albert Einstein and the bloke from Weatherspoons in terms of insight and class.

Boony Army Kevin

The Aussies looked slow and ponderous in Seattle, and the USA walked the game 2-0.

Team USA definitely have two things going for them outside of some pretty decent players. Togetherness and team spirit and home advantage. Neither of these should be underestimated as key factors and I would expect that to carry them through to the last 16 as an absolute minimum. Time will tell.

We spoke to so many fans and I have to say aside from the usual positive enthusiasm that you expect in the US, plenty knew plenty about the game.

The beer was truly excellent and well priced at $7 a pint, plus tip of course, and all local craft beer. I started on what I thought would be a one off, a peanut butter stout and seven pints later found myself changing lanes to a Pilsner in time for the Scotland vs Morocco game.

The bar was way less packed for the Scotland game but still very respectable. Reg 1, Reg 2, Mark and Supes joined us. I met Gary, originally from Wales, who was as USA fan. He knew everyone and introduced me to everyone. My ‘football’ shirt was causing a lot of confusion, you can see it in the picture below and work it out for yourselves, but it is always an ice breaker, not that you ever need that in America. Gary and his mate Logan introduced me to an ex MLS player who played to Nashville SC, I can’t remember his name, but he was a really nice bloke and asked me how I knew so much about soccer. Gary then changed his pitch when introducing me to everyone ‘this is Andy, he’s the only Englishman I have ever met who is a really nice bloke, positive and non judgmental’. That felt like a real compliment and something to be proud of. We met Molly and Kylie too who were young soccer fans, Kirsty immediately took them under her wing and needless to say, they were really lovely and watched the Scotland game with us.

L-R Supes, me, Mark, Reg 1, Reg2, Gary, Billy Kirsty and Logan

When the Moroccans scored in two minutes I really felt the worse for Scotland fearing a proper hiding. But they fought back and dominated the second half. If Scotland had a goal scorer, then they would be a really decent team. It was a shame they couldn’t get that equaliser in the second half. Let’s hope they can get a draw against the Brazilians.

So overall, a great day, with great people, great beer and a great atmosphere. Anyone who believes that Americans just don’t get football/soccer should think again. There’s plenty that do.

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Hey Honky Tonk, Welcome to Music City

Goodbye San Marcos, Austin Texas hello Nashville, Tennessee. I’ve really been looking forward to this trip to Music City. Like really looking forward to it!

And hey boy, hey girl, has not disappointed, it’s actually exceeded my expectations on every single measure.

Our hotel is on Lower Broadway directly opposite the Johnny Cash Museum, we are smack bang in the middle of the Honky Tonk Highway. You want live music? You want loud live music? You want multiple bands all playing live loud music all at once? You’ve got it. These Honky Tonk bars are everywhere. It’s like peak Woolworth’s Pick ‘n’ Mix but instead of sweets, it’s live music.

Our hotel
Our hotel directly opposite The Johnny Cash Museum

Our friends were also arriving in Nashville so we headed to The Fleet Street Pub. This is a pub run by an Englishman who is also clearly a Gooner. We met up with Obi, also a Gooner, who we last saw on the last night in Qatar and Reg (2), who is Billy the Bee’s brother who lives in the U.K. Both great people. Billy has asked me on to his and Laney’s Brentford FC podcast Beesotted a fair few times when West Ham play Brentford and is always the life and soul of any party!

We were on Gooner territory

We watched the Canada vs Qatar game on the big screen. Qatar got a 6-0 drubbing, and Canada don’t look like mugs at all. We very confused about table vs bar service, because there are ‘obviously’ two separate regimes running each and the tips ‘real estate’ seems to be where the real value is. Getting caught up in this tipping turf war ain’t for us. Welcome to America!

Kirsty drinking from The Modelo Boot presented to her by The Fleet Street Pub

At the end of the match we decided to change scene to one with bigger screens and actual commentary that we could hear. So we duly headed to Draft Kings where we were meeting up with the wonderful Reg 1, Mark, Supes and main orchestrator and all round good person, Billy, all of whom were coming in from Mexico.

Full team shot L-R: Mark, Supes, Kirsty, Me, Obi, Reg 2, Billy and Reg 1

Draft Kings is actually a betting company, so think a Paddy Power or Bet365 pub and ridiculously expensive. There were walls and walls of enormous screens and noise to watch the Mexico vs South Korea game on. Both teams looked unimpressive to be honest, and at the end of it, inevitable talk turned to a possible England vs Mexico in Mexico City down the line. Personally, I would love to go back to Mexico City and the Azteca Stadium. The last time I was there we lost 2-1 to Argentina to that goal and that other goal. It would be lovely to return and this time win.

And then back to Broadway, which is quite simply like nothing else I have witnessed. Literally thousands of people, thousands of pairs of Cowboy boots, Cowboy hats and Rhinestone everywhere. It’s like one big hen party sponsored by Ariat or Tony Lama (two of the big names in Cowboy boots). Humour is good and people are clearly out for a good time.

Broadway complete with the cacophony of Honky Tonk bars
Kirsty eyeing up a pair of Ariat Cowboy boots

We hit Chief’s Honky Tonk Bar which like most of the bars has about 5 floors of music. Two things stood out. The extremely high quality of the bands playing and the overall friendliness of the Americans.

And the band played on

For those of us who have travelled many times to the US, the friendliness and openness shouldn’t be a surprise.

Relentlessly optimistic, Americans are always interested in what you think of their country and why you are visiting. When you tell them that we are here for The World Cup, and yes, we were travelling round watching England play their World Cup games, they are all completely enchanted and confused in seemingly equal measure.

Two young lads, Owen and Ryan, were on the other side of the bar and were smiling and pointing over at us. Kirsty thought there was something up. I disagreed. 20 minutes later and my confidence was repaid. The boys were just happy to see ‘an old timer like me having fun’. I did say ‘less of the old’, but they were genuine if a little drunk. That was better than the comment some English fan said when he asked where I was from, always tough question. Is that where I was born, where I have lived, or where I live now? Anyway when I told him I lived in the Cotswolds, he quipped ‘you’ve made some money as you have clearly got a trophy wife’. I corrected him on both counts, but Kirsty found it hilarious. Mind you, when he told me where he was from, note I didn’t actually ask him, he said ‘South London, just outside Gatwick’ to which I replied ‘West Sussex then’. Fortunately him and his very drunk mate decided their night’s entertainment laid elsewhere.

Next up the USA vs Australia match. And we had an early start to make sure we got into the American Outlaws venue to see it.

Always keep things in perspective Kirsty

Y’all come back now…..

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Remember The Alamo

Getting into the USA has never been the easiest process, so it was no surprise that under the current USA regime, everything is just that little slower. Everytime you arrive at US Customs (CBP) you have to expect a very long and slowly moving queue. But as we arrived into Austin, Texas, any talk of CBP checking social media accounts were, for us, vastly over exaggerated. So there is some freedom after all.

In the taxi from the airport I asked the driver, Kono, if we were anywhere The Alamo. ‘Yeah man, San Antonio is only a 45 minute drive from San Marcos, the place we are staying. I said to Kirsty, we have to go there whilst we are out here, I’ve always wanted to visit ever since I first saw the Hollywood film as a young boy watching with my Mum and Dad. As I was talking to Kono about it all, as if by magic, Kirsty got a message from our friend Mark who was hiring a car, and he was suggesting a visit to San Antonio and The Alamo the next day! Perfect timing!

Next morning before we set off I had a call from my good friend Paul, founder of Hammers United, and a fellow military history nut. As I signed off, I said ‘we are off to The Alamo today Paul’, Paul just said ‘blimey, I have always wanted to go there, have a great day’. So typical of Paul to always wish me the best and always look at life through a positive lens.

So Kirsty, Mark, Sam and I headed north west up the Interstate 35 from San Marcos to San Antonio and excitement levels, at least from my perspective were running very, very high. I was navigating, and as we pulled off the Freeway I started to think about the open green space from the film. But there wasn’t any. It was literally high rise buildings everywhere. Fear and loathing, right there. Where’s The Alamo? Have they knocked it down and put a memorial in its place?

We found a car park and parked up. We walked around the corner past a huge building site and then I caught a glance of a memorial which looked fresh as well as impressive. Getting a picture was a challenge given the building site all around the memorial.

Slightly deflated, I started to manage my own expectations and said to the others, ‘maybe commercial modern development needs had trumped some old church that saw a bunch of independent non- Mexicans standing against the Mexicans, but ultimately getting wiped out?’.

But no, around the corner in a quiet haven of space, there it stood, The Alamo. I got very emotional. I have seen that film so many times. The original church still stands as well as the Long Barrack too, the oldest building in San Antonio.

Mark, Kirsty and myself – sorry about the crossed hammers bit

In a nustshell the Battle of The Alamo (February 23 – March 6, 1836) was a pivotal 13-day siege during the Texas Revolution against the Mexicans. Around 200 Texian and Tejano defenders, led by William B. Travis, James Bowie, and Davy Crockett, were annihilated by General Antonio López de Santa Anna’s vastly superior Mexican army. Think thd Battle of Rorke’s Drift, as portrayed in the film Zulu, but this time the vastly outnumbered defenders all die.

Travis’s letter from The Alamo calling for help

I always get a little emotional when I visit historic sites, especially where battles were raged and lives lost. That feeling of poignancy and what it must have been like to face death. Rather self indulgently I recalled that one of the joint commanders, Jim Bowie, he of the famous Bowie Knife, had been taken very ill during the siege and was laid up in sickbed when he met his death. I remember that from the film. Self indulgently because I had been suffering from what I had thought was food poisoning, but may well be a gastro virus of some sort. It had knocked me for six, literally, on the Friday before we flew to Austin on Monday and was still playing havoc with a relentless headache, awful stomach cramps and then sudden rigour attacks. The Texas sun was not helping (as I write this eight days on, I still feel crook but thanks to my friend Dr Mark I have antibiotics.

Just to add to the logistical challenges, because of my illness I had let my good friend Andy down and not sent him a video for an event he was attending. So how better than to do the video from The Alamo? I think he we pleased with the result, all be it delayed!

Us and Davy C
Outside the entrance to The Alamo itself

To add to our agenda, we were asked to do a BBC5Live Drive interview about our expectations for the Croatia game at about midday local time, we are six hours behind the U.K. here and you can listen to it here.

BBC5LiveDrive interview

I signed off that interview with a call for England to invoke the spirit of The Alamo, just don’t do the ultimate failure piece. I was trying to tap into the spirit of those brave defenders who just would not yield an inch and not give up. Inside the The Alamo itself are a number of flags each representing the nation or state where those who fell hailed from. There was an English flag there, not British as there were also flags from Scotland and Wales too. Each had a number on it.

England’s number on our flag? 11. Let that number sink in for a minute. Is it a sign? Who knows, but if England can channel that spirit of defiance, togetherness and a flat refusal to surrender for their cause, against all the odds, then that will do for me.

The English flag tribute to the 11 Englishmen who died defending The Alamo

Remember what George Orwell said about sport that it was ‘War Without The Guns’.

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